Well, it already has the spit, and now it has the polish to match. It seems that Olympic fever has well and truly hit Beijing, and what a wonderful thing it is. All the toilets, whether squat or the occasional western treat, are clean - even sparkling at the major attractions), English is being posted or announced on public transport or major tourist sites, and the price of Peking Duck is rising.

We arrived Friday morning at some ungodly hour, and got to our hotel just long enough to drop bags and head to Tienanmen Square in an effort to beat the rush of tourists. Fools we were. It was swarming. For the biggest square I have ever seen (and I head a rumour of it being the biggest city square in the world), it was certainly filled with the greatest amount of humanity I think I have ever seen occupying the one space. I just need to quantify this a wee bit - most of this sea of people were actually Chinese tourists, and it was an amazing experience to see them all a-buzz with excitement at being where they were, and obviously knowing the significance, both good and bad, of what this square represents to them, something which I will never be able to comprehend, and this awed enthusiasm and pride that seemed to wash over every single one of them.

To be honest, it was hard to imagine what it would have been like, full of soldiers, put through their paces in front of the Chairman himself, or some years later, full of students gunned down seemingly at will. After dinner one night a few new friends and I wandered down to see the square by night, and found the locals flying kites in the evening breeze. If these are not complete polar opposite concepts, I don't know what is. Yet over lunch by the square another day I saw a woman being arrested and removed from the square by the ever present and watchful guards for holding a small banner (which obviously and unfortunately I could not read). Again, the ying and the yang of the China.

I have to say, Saturday morning was probably the most highly anticipated time I've had here. We were up at about 5.30 and on a bus by 6.15 on out way out to the Great Wall of China at SiMaTai. SiMaTai is a 19km stretch of wall about 3 hours from Beijing that is a little bit steep, so mostly attracts the Western Tourists. (The Chinese tend to stay a little closer to Beijing, which was fine with me, as their tour groups can be huge, all following little coloured flags held up by their tour leaders, rushing through sites in waves of noise and elbows and pushing and shoving.) It was great, the wall was mostly intact, although some had been repaired, and went for miles - 19km's worth actually - over hills and down valleys. It was one of those 'pinch me' moments you get every now and then when you're having trouble believing you're awake and actually living something. I find it completely amazing that the Chinese people saw the worth in creating a 5,400km (roughly) fence that took from 221b.c. to 1300a.d-ish to keep the rabbits out.

But Beijing has a hell of a lot more to offer than great proximity to The Wall. The shopping is FANTASTIC. Great quality gear of all sorts, that I suspect was an extended run of the original merchandise. Honestly I would not pick most of it as counterfeit, except where things are obviously not smelling of leather, but more like pleather...The stall vendors are a bread unto their own. I have not encountered anything quite like it - there's emotional blackmail, laughter, tears, red vests, violence - and every bargaining trick in the book. Lots of fun, but short recommended doses only.

China has been full of surprises. I really like it and would love to come back and see more. The magic and myth still sucks you in, but that's OK, because its China. For all the stinking, dirty, vomit inducing toilets and plates full of pigs lung, there is something that will completely turn your head and make you realise that all the rain in Tiger Leaping Gorge, inconsiderate smoking by the person in the restaurant or on public transport next to you makes it all worthwhile. There's so much to say about China that its hard to find all the words - hopefully I'll be able to upload some pics soon and they can fill in the gaps for me.

I have one day left here. I am taking my hair in my hands and going to a Beijing hairdresser tomorrow. Not sure whether you realise, but perms and or mullets are big here, both metaphorically and literally, so wish me luck.