OK, so you're heard the good - now comes the stuff you won't be quite so envious of: Headed off to Tiger Leaping Gorge and was very optimistic for great adventure and sight seeing. (OK, you've seen the pics, you know where this is going.) We had caught the bus from LiJiang to the upper Gorge and drove in to the middle gorge. Starting with a light trip down to the first big set or rapids, I was already fearing for my health when the steps kept going down and down in a fairly steep decline. On the way back up I was wondering why I had not opted for the nice stay in LiJiang for 3 days to 'properly explore' the old city. I felt had to reward myself with a snickers, even though I don't really like snickers, but really thought I wanted chocolate.

After the 'scenic walk' we settled into an 8kn walk on relatively level ground to middle Tiger Leaping Gorge proper. It started to rain about half an hour into the walk. I think I love Goretex. We arrived at our guesthouse at about 2.30pm when the clouds promptly cleared. Our local guide thought it best to wait until the next morning to walk down to the Tiger Leaping Stone - OK, I think I have to tell the 'legend':
Tiger Leaping Gorge is said to be the deepest gorge in the world. The waters of the Golden Sands River rush between a 30m pass before flowing on to join the Yangtze some 130kms down stream. Its a treacherous stretch, and the legend goes that a tiger once leapt from one bank onto a rock in the middle of the river and onto the opposite bank to escape a hunter.

OK, so, sunny afternoon upon arrival, but waiting to see the legendary stone the next morning. Next morning the alarm goes off, but there is this insane, crazy wind outside and pelting rain. The dash to the toilets required full wet weather gear. I assumed the walk was off. The guide suggested waiting for the weather to clear. When it was clear the weather would not clear, I suggested finding a look out to at least see this rock that we would probably never be back to see. OK. So a few keen souls headed out into the weather, slipped and slided down a steep hill until we could glimpse the rock that was not, I'd like to point out, slap bang in the middle of the river, but was accessible by newly constructed walkways, thus reducing the significance of said rock, and on the ridiculously steep climb back up I had to contemplate what it was about Tiger Leaping Stone that suggested that I go look at a rock, in the rain and howling wind.

Overall, I was quite disappointed that there was absolutely no gratuitous misuse, exploitation or abuse of the legendary name of Tiger Leaping Gorge in any way. There was not 1 tacky souvenir to be had that played upon the unfortunate tiger's tale at all. An abysmal display for such a country that is riddled with tacky merchandise everywhere else.

That afternoon we were to walk to our next destination, some 8kms away, but up, up and up. It was still raining. That's all I have to say about that.

Following day we were walking 17kms on level ground then up, then down, down, down. It rained all day. The beautiful scenic gorge was shrouded in cloud all day. I had been hoping, and waiting to see Cloud Mountain (Cloud mountain is the mountain that causes the Yangtze to change its course, thus keeping it flowing its entire length though China, instead of flowing out, as per its original course were it not for the mountain, though Vietnam) but ironically, it was too cloudy to see.

I don't know that I have ever been so cold in my life. I now have an appreciation of the term catching your death of cold, just by being cold. The hot shower upon out eventual arrival back at LiJiang was the best shower I think I have ever had.

And if I never see a squat toilet again it will bee too soon. Alas I am in China.