Hanoi

Today is the last day of my organised Vietnam trip. Tomorrow night I am heading to Sapa which is near the Chinese border for 4 nights and 3 days of trekking through some of the highlands, and what I'm told is some of the most beautiful scenery in Vietnam. But I'll tell you about that later.

So Hanoi is quite a compact place - for a major city. The Old Quarter is packed with tiny streets choked with motorbikes and cyclos. You can sit on the footpath and if you wait long enough everything will come to you. Food, water, transport, sunglasses, clothes, travel agents and a number of people selling items that I'd struggle to name, let alone know their purpose...

The traffic here is manic, yet usually works. You drive on the right - if there is room, or traffic is flowing OK, but this is not set in stone. If you are going faster than someone else you pass on the left while vigorously tooting your horn (which you have previously modified to make your vehicle sound bigger than it is). If you actually are in a bigger vehicle you may pass on the left, crossing over into oncoming traffic, which will move, unless of course the oncoming traffic is bigger than you. Footpaths are optional road lanes, because of course, smaller people will move. Its great. You just have to cross the road moving slowly and consistently and for a brief moment the traffic will swallow you up before you emerge miraculously unscathed on the other side. It's possible that I've even closed my eyes on occasion...it definitely gets your heart rate up.

Hanoi is also quite a nice city, there are several lakes scattered around, and the city itself is surrounded by rivers on at least 3 sides (although constant expansion may be making a liar of me as I type). There is a story about the main lake here similar to Arthur and the lady of the lake, however I believe in this case the lake took back the sword of the Emperor, or something like that - I have not quite got that one down yet.

We actually arrived in Hanoi on Wednesday morning after a long, long overnight train from Hue, departing at 3pm Tuesday afternoon, and arriving just before 6am. I HAVE lost the ability to sleep in. Our group leader thought it best to do an orientation walk of the city immediately, before the bikes and horns made it impossible to a group of 11 weary westerners to get across the roads in one piece, and then hear the directions for the way back to the hotel. To be honest, I didn't do much. I wandered around the lake and strolled up the main drag for 'genuine original copies' of designer jeans. Unfortunately no purchases of this quality merchandise was made, while I actually feel quite tall here, I also feel quite fat - the reinforcement of which by most shopkeepers flatly stating "No big sizes!" upon entry to most stores does not help my fragile ego...

I like the Old Quarter - while we are staying in a tourist hub, its still obvious that the locals are still completely ensconced in their day to day lives here as well. There is a local market in the block behind our hotel that still sells the fresh fruit, meat, fish and various fast food items (including roast dog) that is purchased everyday by the women of the households. I quite like the idea of getting up every morning and getting just what you need for the day, and its so fresh, I mean the fish are often still alive until you buy them. There are barely any supermarkets around, and if you do find them, there is never any fresh produce, there would be no point in stocking it. In the evenings you can sit at plastic tables and chairs (that we would consider to be made for children) on the corner of almost any street and buy a freshly brewed, no-name beer for 2,000 Dong per glass (lets see, that's about 20cents for a handle of beer).

The food here is a great mix of Western and traditional Vietnamese. I don't know if I'll ever get sick of spring rolls, and I know I've mentioned the seafood, but honestly, its so good and really, really cheap. I'm feeling very proud of my new found skill with which I can now pick up peanuts and the like with chopsticks. I'm not saying I've mastered them by any means, and will not be catching flies any time soon, but as I have not yet hit China, I'll keep myself open to the Chi...

Thursday we jumped on a bus bound for Halong City, and of course the famed Halong Bay. We had a private boat (one of the great advantages of being with a group, I have to say!) waiting for us that somehow made its way from the middle of the marina to the open waters of the bay. Now when I say the middle - please take me literally. Boats are not moored individually and logically, they are moored often to each other, with the first boats in tied safely to the pier. Somehow - perhaps I can liken it to Moses and the parting of the red sea - boats do find their way out to open water.

Unfortunately we only saw one traditional junk boat (they old ones with awesome orange/red sails that look so majestically imperial floating out in the water), and unfortunately the weather was c.r.a.p. I don't know whether you would call it a sea fog, a cloud of polluted haze or what, but there was no clearing it, no matter how much wishing I did. I still have to say that despite the haze the bay was pretty amazing. There are about 3,000 islands in the bay - most of which are just sheer limestone rocks that burst out of the water for no apparent reason other than that they can. We cruised for about 4 hours (again, gorgeous seafood lunch on board) before we docked at Cat Ba island - the largest of the islands populated by about 12,000 people. I could not actually tell you how many people lived in the floating villages in between the islands, along with their pet guard dogs, guarding their floating fish farms I guess. I was not a huge fan of Cat Ba Island, but you can not argue with the view.

Friday morning I joined a few from the group on a little paddle around the islands. 'Little paddle'. It felt like I could have paddled home! We crossed a few big channels, passing bobbing jelly fish the size of small children. Many plastic bags, the size of...plastic bags, and thankfully no shark sightings, which was obviously what my paranoid imagination interpreted anything other than water as - no wait, sometimes even water, before my right, rational brain reassured me. It was a good morning's exercise, even if I am struggling to lift a water today...

At 12.30 we jumped on the public ferry, with a couple of motorbikes for good measure, and headed back to Hai Phoung on the main land. Bussed it back to Hanoi for our last supper together and that was that.

The Perfume River

I must apologise for me last entry - it was crap. My heart just wasn't in it, and you deserve better.
OK so we left Saigon, er, several days ago... We were due to catch the overnight bus at 8.20 pm, however we arrived only to find the train delayed until 11pm. [Sorry, this huge green butterfly just floated into the cafe and sat on the wall for a minute - awesome!] Cards are very handy things when trying to pass several hours.
The trains here are quite good - there's only one main line that runs from north to south, so delays are inevitable, but they always seem to arrive as scheduled. I think we were fairly spoilt in getting the 4 berth rooms, rather than 6, or even seated compartments [she says with nose in the air] but I think the toilets were shared by everyone - well, that's how they smelt, anyway. Normally I can sleep OK on these things, but the air-con kept flicking on and off like the flouro light outside so I spent the night trying to maintain a regular body temperature...

The train was due to arrive about 5.30am (its becoming a common theme for me) so I guess I was up at about 5.15, and taking in the view of rural Vietnam. It was amazing - the sky was a hazy salmon pink with grey mountains behind a strip of rice paddies, some of which were burning, ready for the next crop. The locals were out already - understandably, most people are pretty useless in the midday sun - oh wait, that might just be me. There were bullocks pulling carts and it was just generally picturesque.

We pulled into Nha Trang and headed for the hotel, keen for showers. Nha Trang is a beach town, as I mentioned, so we chartered a boat and went out for a day of snorkling (which was pretty crap - no coral at all) and just generally sunning outselves on the boat, or splashing around in the water. Lunch was a seafood buffet, and man was it good. Grilled squid, fried prawnd, grilled marlin with mango salsa, fried noodles, rice, stir fried greens - OK I'll stop. Yes, at times I do feel like I'm on an eating tour of SE Asia, but its all sooo good! Except whatever made me sick the other day!

From Nha Trang we caught another overnight train to Da Nang (and I slept really well this time), then a quick bus trip back to our base in Hoi An. Hoi An is a small place not that far from the coast. Its retained alot of the old town, and this is a shoppers paradise. Every second shop is a tailors shop, and the shops in between are usually shoe makers. Hoi An is well known for its food also, but unfortunately I had lost the first day of this gastranomical location getting better acquainted with our hotel's bathroom. God love those generic stomach bug anti-biotics. The people there are really friendly - they can make quite a nice conversation out of "You come and see my shop - just look OK". Its funny, if you walked through the markets blindfolded (but not recommended) you would be able to tell what the vendors were selling; all the souvenir sellers spoke to you, but the fresh produce people just didn't waste the energy, unless of course you gave them a big grin, and quizzical look at what they were selling. I often try to ask what things are (as sometimes you honestly just don't know), but unfortunately the only reply is often just a nod and a grin, occasionally a price per kilo...
From Hoi An to Hue is only about 4 hours, so we managed a private bus for a scenic tour over the mountain pass that virtually seperates north from south. They say that they even affect the temperature, so I guess I'm just insensitive to that subtle climatic change...The drive was beautiful, if not slightly hair raising, as we wound our way up and down hair-pin bends at a very slow pace, while still managing to pass slightly slower vehicles. There were hollows of rice fields either side of the road, with the mountains fading into the backgound behind; the scenes were great - locals standing on their buffalo, workers silhouettes wandereing across the railway bridge, and dropping out their fishing nets behind their boat on the little river inlets. As our guides often say, many kodak moments.

Hue is a reasonably big place, but I like it. Again, the people are friendly (sometimes too friendly, you can't hire every moto driver in the city!) and keen to get your money, er I mean help you out. Yesterday we took a full day tour by motorbike that lead us out into the countryside, through little villages, rice fields, bamboo groves, along rivers and past kids screaming "Hello!" and holding out thier hands for a Hi 5 out wide! We say ducks being herded down a river, locals making cone hats and incense, and then stopped for lunch at a nunnery which was lovely and quiet. You almost feel like a local on the back of one of these bikes, you can go anywhere, and I think we kinda did. We finished with a boat trip back along the Perfumed River that runs through Hue, so named as the rains would un down through the mountains, picking up the scent of the orchids on their way - I don't know that it smells like Orchids now, but at least it doesn't smell of anything else, which can't be said for too many of the rivers throughout the region.

Hoi An: Fish Markets

Slow paced Hoi An

Its nice to get somewhere and call it home for 3 nights, which is what we've done here in Hoi An. Its a more traditional place, still incredibly touristy, yet still has an old town where they do not allow motorised vehicles - well, mostly anyway.

They market here is quite amazing. Once again I managed to drag myself out of bed at 5.45am to get to the fish markets and catch all the action, and yes, I still think I smell of fish (that's fush for you Kiwis). Now I can't be 100% sure, but I think that there may have been a small dolphin cut into generous sections, but I'm giving the ladies the benefit of the doubt and calling it a shark. Its hard to tell when things are beheaded with their fins cut off also. But I am sure that I saw the skinning of live frogs - they like their food fresh here...Yes, it is true, that you have never really smelt a bad smell until you spend time in a fish market somewhere in Asia...

Before Hoi An we spent the night in Nha Trang (well, technically the night was spent on the overnight train from Nha Trang to Hoi An...) - a beachside city that has the traditionally beachy laid back vibe, however I would recommend still heading to Thailand or QLD for that beach side holiday.

We leave Hoi An for Hue tomorrow afternoon, after a crash course in creating a 5 course Vietnamese banquet, with market shopping in preparation included. I think it's going to be pretty cool.

My apologies, the internet here has not let me get onto the blog until today, so I'm not even going to try t upload pics from here, you'll just have to wait. And please keep those emails coming - comments are great, but I want to hear all the goss, that maybe you don't want to share with the rest of the blog audience!

Miss Saigon

I arrived in Saigon (always Ho Chi Minh City on paper) late Friday afternoon. The weather is the same, but that's about it. Vietnam is much cleaner that Cambodia - there's still rubbish, but nowhere near as much, which is nice. The people are just as friendly - the market stall workers, a little too friendly at times. Despite this, I'm looking forward to filling my pack with Ralph Lauren and Lacoste clothes - Genuine Original copies! Hmm, maybe I'll be making use of the national postal services.
I've gotta say, I really enjoyed doing nothing yesterday, except catch up on some western food. Once I leave Saigon, I'll be back to authentic Vietnamese food!
This morning I did a bit of a walking tour (much more dangerous than it sounds) around town and ended up at the War Remnants Museum. Like Tuol Sleng, this is a rather grotesque collection of memories from the (once again, very recent) war. While the old choppers and planes look more like life size models, the images on the walls don't hold back, and once again, being relatively naive to the full scale of this war, I found myself totally shocked and confronted by the looks of utter terror staring back at me from each frame. And that's all I have to say about that.
Not far from the Museum, I came across a strip of footpath that appeared to be the place to sell pets. It was all very cute to begin with - puppies of all kinds, looking in very good condition I was pleased to see, and as I walked along there were turtles, then squirrels, and then what I believe to be a little lemur. Now I could be wrong (it's happened before) but the big eyes and clinging claws looked like a lemur, but I don't know if it smelt like and subsequently was a lemur...The I realised, that I might be entering potentially frustrating territory in this part of the world with the sale of endangered animals, both alive, and possibly in bits...
Crossing the roads here, well, let's just say that if you don't take your life into your hands and just do it, you will never get off the footpath. I want to try to get a video - many of you I'm sure have encountered similar, but I feel an overwhelming urge to giggle with glee every time I make it safely across. Like you've just walked through the lions den without a scratch. He hee. I only wonder how I'll be when I actually get to Hanoi - Population 8.2 million (approx.) with over 4 million motorbikes. It would be OK if they just obeyed the road rules! But what I love about it is the green men. No, not the ones on the traffic lights, but the city volunteers who actually dress in green and assist you across the road, as though you were 80 and using a walking frame...so great.
We have lost 2 of our travelling group here in HCMC, but gained another Swiss lady and an Aussie couple from SA somewhere - remote by the sounds of the accents. So we'll have 11 people on this trip, and our leader Quang sounds like he's just got off the boat from England - obviously a British teacher at his school, or has watched The English Patient once too often. He dislikes the accent, however, American accents are much more desirable - according to the ladies that is...
Today is 32deg I believe, not too bad, with the exception of whatever % humidity it is. Not as hot as it has been, mind. The humidity should decrease as we go further north which will be nice. I'll keep you posted.

Phnom Penh

So, having lost track of days and dates completely now, we left Siam Reap several days ago.
We headed to Kampong Cham on the Mekong River which is a fairly quiet place. They have a small island in the middle of the river which has tobacco farms, but floods with the monsoons every year. there is a cool bamboo bridge (amazing feat of engineering) which needs to be rebuilt every year, after the floods wash it away.
There is also a Buddhist Wat just out of town which because known as the Killing Temple during the reign of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, where people were shot until it was decided that bullets were too costly, so the methods were replaced with knives and machetes which were sharpened on the backside of a stone statue.
From Kampong Cham we headed though Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville - Cambodia's answer to the beach holiday. There's not that much to do there except snorkel in the warm waters or briefly trek through Ream National Park to yet more secluded, fine, white sandy beaches.
From there we made our way by public, yet thankfully air-conditioned bus to Phnom Penh. It will be New Year here on the 14th of April, so not only will we miss the celebrations, but unfortunately the availability of guides goes down, yet the price for their services goes up, so we arranged for a tour of the sites for that afternoon.
Our first stop was Tuol Sleng Museum. This is one of the grisliest museums I have ever seem. During the early 1970's this was a High School, until Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge started gaining momentum and turned it into an 'Educational Facility' or prison in our terms. Over 100 people were interrogated, tortured and killed per day from this facility, or an estimated 17,000 people from 1975-1979. As I mentioned, bullets were expensive, so the most imaginative methods were used to get information from people that defies comprehension. Initially people threw themselves from the balconies to escape the prolonged torture, but barbed wire was soon put up to prevent any 'vital information' to slip through their fingers. If you didn't die during interrogation, you were trucked about 14kms out of town to the killing fields where you were blindfolded, tied with your hands behind your back, and I think if you were lucky you were struck on the back of the head with a bamboo stick. If you were unlucky you had your throat slowly severed with a branch from the sugar palm tree.
The mass graves at the Killing Fields have not all been recovered. There are some 80 holes that will remain as they are. As you walk around them you are literally walking on the bones and clothes of the thousands of people who remain there, as the rains bring them up every year.
Its hard to look at the older generation who survived this now without wondering how they escaped death. Sadly it was implied that many may have been soldiers, and have no regrets about what happened as they were only doing what they had to, were told to do, in order to survive. Apologies for getting heavy, but its something you can not ignore here.

Tomb Raiders II

Tomb Raiders

Despite the 4.30am start, its been one of those great days that, now that it's over, you pinch yourself and humbly ask what have I done to deserve this?
Once again starting the day with a bumpy bus ride through the Camboadian countryside just outside Siam Reap, we headed to one of the seven wonders of the world - The Angkor Temples.
Along with countless hundreds, possibly even thousands, we poured onto the steps and ledges on the ruined walls of Angkor Wat to watch the sun rise over a unique sihlouette. We waited for about half an hour as the light gradually got better and better.
I hope you were paying attention to the approximate numbers arriving at this time who witness said spectacle, because it was here that I bumped into an old friend from high school. (Michelle Barnett for those of you playing at home). Mathematicians, you may comment on the odds of this happening in the comments section below.
Now I could give you all the details of the temples we visited, and bore you silly. Instead, I'll just upload a few images for you to have a gander at*. When you've looked at these, please remember the sweat and tears I've endured to bring you these images - and I'd do it again!
The temples are spread over quite a large area, and unfortunately we rushed through them just a touch. Anyone considering a visit, I'd suggest taking a leisurely pace over 2-3 days, it you're into that sort of thing. And I hope you are, its well worth it.
*Pics will be coming when internet connections are faster - sorry!

Cambodian Basix

Suwuh suh dei, or something like that - basically G'day in Cambodian.
Yesterday was a long, long day. Up at 5.45 to get on the road by 7am. It was about 4.5 hrs to the Thai/Cambodian border. I love Thai roads, so smooth and, even thought the drivers do drive at high speed, rather erratically, you do get there neither shaken, nor stirred.
The group is pretty good. There's a 19 y.o. from England, a couple from England just out of uni (although she's Aussie) a couple from just south of Auckland (who I believe will be accompanying me all the way to Beijing - how uncanny is that??), another Aussie from near Newcastle, 2 girls from Norway about to start med school and of course Sambo (shortened to Sam for obvious reasons of skin colour) our local Cambodian group leader. We're waiting for 2 people who missed departure to catch up, if they can, at some point.
The drive to the border was a good time to get to know everyone a bit better, as we watched the last of Thailand whiz by through the bus windows.
Once into Cambodia, the increase in poverty was immediate. However the locals were lovely - which is odd for the border post towns. The bus, however, well the bus was fine, it was more the roads! They are known here as the Dancing Roads ; ladies, get your sports bras ready. If you can think of the worst road undergoing roadworks, or perhaps an area commonly used for 4 wheel driving, and then double it, you're starting to get an idea of the condition of these roads. Apparently the government own the airlines, subsequently you get no spending on the ground.
So everyday we have seen people with missing limbs, really quite sad. Many of them don't beg, unlike some of the children, they do, however, try to sell guide books or historical novels to support themselves. I'm finding it strange that they work in $US here, rather then the local currency, Riel, while still valid, dollars are preferred, and accepted, change is given in a mixture of both currencies as they do not deal in US coin.
I'm heading to the Temples tomorrow, so hopefully I'll get to upload some pics then.

On the road again...

Tonight will be my last night in Bangkok. I'm kinda excited, as I've just met my new room mate, Nicole, an Accountant from Melbourne so it's quote cool that the next part of my adventure is imminent!
I do like Bangkok - although the hustle and bustle is tiring. Not to mention the heat, which I think I already have, several times. Repetition is emphasis.
Friday evening I drank like a rich person. At the top of the State Tower is an amazing 360deg view of Bangkok. Dave and I were up there in time for a hazy sunset, followed by a cool, relaxing Mai Tai while the lights of Bangkok came to life. Its a huge city, and easy to forget how the streets feel like they can close in on you from way up there! Dinner at the Night Bizarre next to Lompini Park. Apparently there are plans to bulldoze this great spot for locals and tourists, and put up yet another mall or high rise. Shame.
Saturday was a fun day. A leisurely start at about 11am, and jumped on the back of a motorcycle taxi up to the skytrain station. I know I shouldn't but I love the motorbike taxis! You know you have a professional if they give you a helmet. The weaving and ducking and maneuvering to get to the front of the lights really is something to behold, and they manage it before every green light. Then when the lights change its an exhilarating rush as all the bikes take off like a huge swarm of angry....somethings - just remember to keep your mouth closed! Onward to the boat taxis to head up the river to Chinatown, where I'm sure they don't know the meaning of 'one'. Everything there is in bulk. In just one trip you may never need to shop again. The streets are narrow and crowded, and I'm so impressed by the ambition, and arrogance, of the guys riding their motorbikes through this maze while the crowds part.
As the heat and the invasion of personal space increased, it was time to move on to Jim Thompson's house. An American soldier came to Thailand during WW2 and feel in love with the place, gathering traditional homes from across the country, along with the most amazing traditional art collection from all across Asia, he established himself in Bangkok, and revitalised the traditional silk trade with the western world. Then, while walking one day in the Malaysian highlands he just disappeared...weird.
Yesterday Dave flew out to the UK, and I headed to my new digs, just a stone's throw from Kho San Road. After dumping my bags I was out again, pounding the pavement, on my way to The Grand Palace and the Wat that houses the Emerald Buddha (and I can't spell the name off the top of my head, so that's some homework for you...). This place is is amazing. The sculptures (Thai angels and demons, and assorted guardians of the King) are beautiful, intricate and mostly gold. Similarly the artwork painted on the walls and then gold leafed are stunning. The gold used for the kings and god-incarnations seem to glow and jump off the walls next to the painted everyday scenes.
Next door Buddha was just lying around at Wat Pho. This golden statue is the largest Reclining Buddha, and I can't even tell you how big it is. Its just very, very big. Its hard to get a really good look at it as there are pillars and what not holding up the roof above it, but them you stand down one end and look back, it loses all sense of proportion. But very beautiful.
So today is the first day of my tour. People will be arriving during the day, I'll be getting excited. Hopefully I'll be able to update you again with tales of dicey border crossings, near misses with elephant stampedes, or something equally exciting.