Traffic was slow coming into town - we later learned that the football was on, and luckily we didn't try to make it all the way from Savannah the night before, as we would have found ourselves sleeping in the car. It was a big game between the local team and someone else and everything was booked out. As it happened we got into the Best Western in the heart of Downtown Nashville for a song (oh, anyone travelling in the States, I recommend stopping at every Welcome Centre just over the State borders for excellent state maps and most importantly, coupon books for awesome deals on accommodation throughout that state).
So with the best part of the day still ahead of us, we wandered out in search of the country music scene that would have us line dancing in our seats, but the only thing that was dancing in the streets was the proverbial tumbleweed. Downtown Nashville was completely dead. We headed to a pub in hope of finding chicken fried chicken and some atmosphere in which to immerse ourselves while the footballing opportunity was there. Unfortunately the pub was as quiet as the streets, so we had to interpret the game for ourselves, and alas, there was no chicken fried chicken on the menu either.
Our waiter informed us that things would pick up after the game, whether 'we' won or not, and gave us the low down on the bars to hit when they did. After a quick return to the hotel to get into our boot scooting attire, we were back out and ready to go. First stop was BB King's House of Blues, which I'd been hankering to get to since New Orleans. We were all in for a treat that night, the band was actually from New Orleans and were playing pretty sweet, and we finally got out chicken fried chicken on a bed of mac and cheese. While the music was groovin', most of the crowd were just sitting back and bathing in it, but we were ready for something else, so we headed out to see what else Nashville could dish up.
Every place you walked past was howling out Country and/or Western, but we'd been given the heads up that Tootsies, while possibly the smallest bar, was probably the rootin'est, tootin'est on Broadway. We wandered in to find a two man band on the smallest stage I've seen, just enough room for the two of them if they didn't swing them old guitars too hard. The singer was young and pretty, and I think he had his eye on a Keith Urban style career by the looks.
The bar was packed, and at first the only room we could make for ourselves was in front of the men's room. I didn't recognise any of the songs they were playin' but the crowd sure did. The manager swept round with the tip jar every few songs to make the most of the moving tide of people. There were newspaper cut outs and photos of country stars stuck up around the walls, and in between, covering every bit of space was the scribbling of countless would be singers, fans and drunks imparting their 'wisdom' to whoever cared, or could still manage to read it. It was an older crowd too. I mean a few younger people were there, but it was kind of your 30-50's there who just wanted to be a part of it, who'd grown up with country in their blood and could darn near sing everything better than those guys behind the mic, and kick up the dust while they were doin' it.
Behind the bar was another flight of stairs. As soon as you walked through it was like someone had cut the sound to the band down front and picked it up from these other guys right down the back of the place. This young guy, singing cool in his black John B and Wranglers, was all country. He had the dance floor moving, and tipped his hat where it counted. Again, I didn't know much of what he was singing, but was happy to slide on back into the crown and take it all in.
Some LA boys were there wondering what a bunch of four Aussie chicks were doing in Nashville. What do you say to that? It does seem strange to me that I, personally would go to Nashville, having very little appreciation for the genre at any other time, but sometimes you do things that you can't quite explain. And then you get something from it that is even harder to explain. I was having a ball, right up to the point when I just couldn't listen to country anymore. It was like a switch that flicked off in my ears.
Nashville is great for souvenirs. There's a great selection of John Deere merchandise, and any number of places selling CDs and the coolest country T's you've ever seen. I have to admit, that when you come across a store like this, its a little hit and miss - you could hit the jackpot of cool stuff, or it could be like you've crawled into Garth Brooks' bottom drawer. Either way it would be an entertaining, yet horrifying few minutes of your life. Monday morning we hit a few of the stores, then headed on to the Country Music Hall of Fame. If I need to save face here, there was a Special Exhibition of Ray Charles life and times (in country music) that I was keen to check out, but I found a lot more there. My brother loves the old Harmonica stuff, so I can now advise him to check out DuFord Bailey who could make a train whistle on that thing. I also know that Dolly was writing about a little girl she met with green eyes and red hair when she wrote Jolene, but maybe that's a little much.We didn't really want to leave after getting tangled up in the nightlife, but on our last night in Nashville we once again realised that Road trip was soon rolling to a stand still. But there was still time to experience yet another American institution, so that night we made our way to Hooters for dinner. We were almost shocked to find as many women as men there, and even a birthday party for a 14y.o. kid. I have to say, the food was terrible, and the women were no where near as well endowed as I had been led to believe, or maybe we just got the dud waitress...
Unfortunately time didn't allow us to get out to the Grand Ole Opry, something that I would love to do (now that they allow the drums and amps), although not to see country, which is just about all you get out there these days. Don't get me wrong, there are a lot of Blues roots in Nashville also, its just that country is so big - its all you can get on the radio in them there parts. But its a pretty cool place - please don't overlook it just cause you ain't into the twang - I can guarantee a good time regardless.
Next stop: Memphis and mixed emotions. Still so much to do, but by now, so little time.
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