Its nice to get somewhere and call it home for 3 nights, which is what we've done here in Hoi An. Its a more traditional place, still incredibly touristy, yet still has an old town where they do not allow motorised vehicles - well, mostly anyway.
They market here is quite amazing. Once again I managed to drag myself out of bed at 5.45am to get to the fish markets and catch all the action, and yes, I still think I smell of fish (that's fush for you Kiwis). Now I can't be 100% sure, but I think that there may have been a small dolphin cut into generous sections, but I'm giving the ladies the benefit of the doubt and calling it a shark. Its hard to tell when things are beheaded with their fins cut off also. But I am sure that I saw the skinning of live frogs - they like their food fresh here...Yes, it is true, that you have never really smelt a bad smell until you spend time in a fish market somewhere in Asia...
Before Hoi An we spent the night in Nha Trang (well, technically the night was spent on the overnight train from Nha Trang to Hoi An...) - a beachside city that has the traditionally beachy laid back vibe, however I would recommend still heading to Thailand or QLD for that beach side holiday.
We leave Hoi An for Hue tomorrow afternoon, after a crash course in creating a 5 course Vietnamese banquet, with market shopping in preparation included. I think it's going to be pretty cool.
My apologies, the internet here has not let me get onto the blog until today, so I'm not even going to try t upload pics from here, you'll just have to wait. And please keep those emails coming - comments are great, but I want to hear all the goss, that maybe you don't want to share with the rest of the blog audience!
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Miss Saigon
I arrived in Saigon (always Ho Chi Minh City on paper) late Friday afternoon. The weather is the same, but that's about it. Vietnam is much cleaner that Cambodia - there's still rubbish, but nowhere near as much, which is nice. The people are just as friendly - the market stall workers, a little too friendly at times. Despite this, I'm looking forward to filling my pack with Ralph Lauren and Lacoste clothes - Genuine Original copies! Hmm, maybe I'll be making use of the national postal services.
I've gotta say, I really enjoyed doing nothing yesterday, except catch up on some western food. Once I leave Saigon, I'll be back to authentic Vietnamese food!
This morning I did a bit of a walking tour (much more dangerous than it sounds) around town and ended up at the War Remnants Museum. Like Tuol Sleng, this is a rather grotesque collection of memories from the (once again, very recent) war. While the old choppers and planes look more like life size models, the images on the walls don't hold back, and once again, being relatively naive to the full scale of this war, I found myself totally shocked and confronted by the looks of utter terror staring back at me from each frame. And that's all I have to say about that.
Not far from the Museum, I came across a strip of footpath that appeared to be the place to sell pets. It was all very cute to begin with - puppies of all kinds, looking in very good condition I was pleased to see, and as I walked along there were turtles, then squirrels, and then what I believe to be a little lemur. Now I could be wrong (it's happened before) but the big eyes and clinging claws looked like a lemur, but I don't know if it smelt like and subsequently was a lemur...The I realised, that I might be entering potentially frustrating territory in this part of the world with the sale of endangered animals, both alive, and possibly in bits...
Crossing the roads here, well, let's just say that if you don't take your life into your hands and just do it, you will never get off the footpath. I want to try to get a video - many of you I'm sure have encountered similar, but I feel an overwhelming urge to giggle with glee every time I make it safely across. Like you've just walked through the lions den without a scratch. He hee. I only wonder how I'll be when I actually get to Hanoi - Population 8.2 million (approx.) with over 4 million motorbikes. It would be OK if they just obeyed the road rules! But what I love about it is the green men. No, not the ones on the traffic lights, but the city volunteers who actually dress in green and assist you across the road, as though you were 80 and using a walking frame...so great.
We have lost 2 of our travelling group here in HCMC, but gained another Swiss lady and an Aussie couple from SA somewhere - remote by the sounds of the accents. So we'll have 11 people on this trip, and our leader Quang sounds like he's just got off the boat from England - obviously a British teacher at his school, or has watched The English Patient once too often. He dislikes the accent, however, American accents are much more desirable - according to the ladies that is...
Today is 32deg I believe, not too bad, with the exception of whatever % humidity it is. Not as hot as it has been, mind. The humidity should decrease as we go further north which will be nice. I'll keep you posted.
I've gotta say, I really enjoyed doing nothing yesterday, except catch up on some western food. Once I leave Saigon, I'll be back to authentic Vietnamese food!
This morning I did a bit of a walking tour (much more dangerous than it sounds) around town and ended up at the War Remnants Museum. Like Tuol Sleng, this is a rather grotesque collection of memories from the (once again, very recent) war. While the old choppers and planes look more like life size models, the images on the walls don't hold back, and once again, being relatively naive to the full scale of this war, I found myself totally shocked and confronted by the looks of utter terror staring back at me from each frame. And that's all I have to say about that.
Not far from the Museum, I came across a strip of footpath that appeared to be the place to sell pets. It was all very cute to begin with - puppies of all kinds, looking in very good condition I was pleased to see, and as I walked along there were turtles, then squirrels, and then what I believe to be a little lemur. Now I could be wrong (it's happened before) but the big eyes and clinging claws looked like a lemur, but I don't know if it smelt like and subsequently was a lemur...The I realised, that I might be entering potentially frustrating territory in this part of the world with the sale of endangered animals, both alive, and possibly in bits...
Crossing the roads here, well, let's just say that if you don't take your life into your hands and just do it, you will never get off the footpath. I want to try to get a video - many of you I'm sure have encountered similar, but I feel an overwhelming urge to giggle with glee every time I make it safely across. Like you've just walked through the lions den without a scratch. He hee. I only wonder how I'll be when I actually get to Hanoi - Population 8.2 million (approx.) with over 4 million motorbikes. It would be OK if they just obeyed the road rules! But what I love about it is the green men. No, not the ones on the traffic lights, but the city volunteers who actually dress in green and assist you across the road, as though you were 80 and using a walking frame...so great.
We have lost 2 of our travelling group here in HCMC, but gained another Swiss lady and an Aussie couple from SA somewhere - remote by the sounds of the accents. So we'll have 11 people on this trip, and our leader Quang sounds like he's just got off the boat from England - obviously a British teacher at his school, or has watched The English Patient once too often. He dislikes the accent, however, American accents are much more desirable - according to the ladies that is...
Today is 32deg I believe, not too bad, with the exception of whatever % humidity it is. Not as hot as it has been, mind. The humidity should decrease as we go further north which will be nice. I'll keep you posted.
Thursday, April 12, 2007
Phnom Penh
So, having lost track of days and dates completely now, we left Siam Reap several days ago.
We headed to Kampong Cham on the Mekong River which is a fairly quiet place. They have a small island in the middle of the river which has tobacco farms, but floods with the monsoons every year. there is a cool bamboo bridge (amazing feat of engineering) which needs to be rebuilt every year, after the floods wash it away.
There is also a Buddhist Wat just out of town which because known as the Killing Temple during the reign of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, where people were shot until it was decided that bullets were too costly, so the methods were replaced with knives and machetes which were sharpened on the backside of a stone statue.
From Kampong Cham we headed though Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville - Cambodia's answer to the beach holiday. There's not that much to do there except snorkel in the warm waters or briefly trek through Ream National Park to yet more secluded, fine, white sandy beaches.
From there we made our way by public, yet thankfully air-conditioned bus to Phnom Penh. It will be New Year here on the 14th of April, so not only will we miss the celebrations, but unfortunately the availability of guides goes down, yet the price for their services goes up, so we arranged for a tour of the sites for that afternoon.
Our first stop was Tuol Sleng Museum. This is one of the grisliest museums I have ever seem. During the early 1970's this was a High School, until Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge started gaining momentum and turned it into an 'Educational Facility' or prison in our terms. Over 100 people were interrogated, tortured and killed per day from this facility, or an estimated 17,000 people from 1975-1979. As I mentioned, bullets were expensive, so the most imaginative methods were used to get information from people that defies comprehension. Initially people threw themselves from the balconies to escape the prolonged torture, but barbed wire was soon put up to prevent any 'vital information' to slip through their fingers. If you didn't die during interrogation, you were trucked about 14kms out of town to the killing fields where you were blindfolded, tied with your hands behind your back, and I think if you were lucky you were struck on the back of the head with a bamboo stick. If you were unlucky you had your throat slowly severed with a branch from the sugar palm tree.
The mass graves at the Killing Fields have not all been recovered. There are some 80 holes that will remain as they are. As you walk around them you are literally walking on the bones and clothes of the thousands of people who remain there, as the rains bring them up every year.
Its hard to look at the older generation who survived this now without wondering how they escaped death. Sadly it was implied that many may have been soldiers, and have no regrets about what happened as they were only doing what they had to, were told to do, in order to survive. Apologies for getting heavy, but its something you can not ignore here.
We headed to Kampong Cham on the Mekong River which is a fairly quiet place. They have a small island in the middle of the river which has tobacco farms, but floods with the monsoons every year. there is a cool bamboo bridge (amazing feat of engineering) which needs to be rebuilt every year, after the floods wash it away.
There is also a Buddhist Wat just out of town which because known as the Killing Temple during the reign of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, where people were shot until it was decided that bullets were too costly, so the methods were replaced with knives and machetes which were sharpened on the backside of a stone statue.
From Kampong Cham we headed though Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville - Cambodia's answer to the beach holiday. There's not that much to do there except snorkel in the warm waters or briefly trek through Ream National Park to yet more secluded, fine, white sandy beaches.
From there we made our way by public, yet thankfully air-conditioned bus to Phnom Penh. It will be New Year here on the 14th of April, so not only will we miss the celebrations, but unfortunately the availability of guides goes down, yet the price for their services goes up, so we arranged for a tour of the sites for that afternoon.
Our first stop was Tuol Sleng Museum. This is one of the grisliest museums I have ever seem. During the early 1970's this was a High School, until Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge started gaining momentum and turned it into an 'Educational Facility' or prison in our terms. Over 100 people were interrogated, tortured and killed per day from this facility, or an estimated 17,000 people from 1975-1979. As I mentioned, bullets were expensive, so the most imaginative methods were used to get information from people that defies comprehension. Initially people threw themselves from the balconies to escape the prolonged torture, but barbed wire was soon put up to prevent any 'vital information' to slip through their fingers. If you didn't die during interrogation, you were trucked about 14kms out of town to the killing fields where you were blindfolded, tied with your hands behind your back, and I think if you were lucky you were struck on the back of the head with a bamboo stick. If you were unlucky you had your throat slowly severed with a branch from the sugar palm tree.
The mass graves at the Killing Fields have not all been recovered. There are some 80 holes that will remain as they are. As you walk around them you are literally walking on the bones and clothes of the thousands of people who remain there, as the rains bring them up every year.
Its hard to look at the older generation who survived this now without wondering how they escaped death. Sadly it was implied that many may have been soldiers, and have no regrets about what happened as they were only doing what they had to, were told to do, in order to survive. Apologies for getting heavy, but its something you can not ignore here.
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Thursday, April 5, 2007
Tomb Raiders
Despite the 4.30am start, its been one of those great days that, now that it's over, you pinch yourself and humbly ask what have I done to deserve this?
Once again starting the day with a bumpy bus ride through the Camboadian countryside just outside Siam Reap, we headed to one of the seven wonders of the world - The Angkor Temples.
Along with countless hundreds, possibly even thousands, we poured onto the steps and ledges on the ruined walls of Angkor Wat to watch the sun rise over a unique sihlouette. We waited for about half an hour as the light gradually got better and better.
I hope you were paying attention to the approximate numbers arriving at this time who witness said spectacle, because it was here that I bumped into an old friend from high school. (Michelle Barnett for those of you playing at home). Mathematicians, you may comment on the odds of this happening in the comments section below.
Now I could give you all the details of the temples we visited, and bore you silly. Instead, I'll just upload a few images for you to have a gander at*. When you've looked at these, please remember the sweat and tears I've endured to bring you these images - and I'd do it again!
The temples are spread over quite a large area, and unfortunately we rushed through them just a touch. Anyone considering a visit, I'd suggest taking a leisurely pace over 2-3 days, it you're into that sort of thing. And I hope you are, its well worth it.
*Pics will be coming when internet connections are faster - sorry!
Once again starting the day with a bumpy bus ride through the Camboadian countryside just outside Siam Reap, we headed to one of the seven wonders of the world - The Angkor Temples.
Along with countless hundreds, possibly even thousands, we poured onto the steps and ledges on the ruined walls of Angkor Wat to watch the sun rise over a unique sihlouette. We waited for about half an hour as the light gradually got better and better.
I hope you were paying attention to the approximate numbers arriving at this time who witness said spectacle, because it was here that I bumped into an old friend from high school. (Michelle Barnett for those of you playing at home). Mathematicians, you may comment on the odds of this happening in the comments section below.
Now I could give you all the details of the temples we visited, and bore you silly. Instead, I'll just upload a few images for you to have a gander at*. When you've looked at these, please remember the sweat and tears I've endured to bring you these images - and I'd do it again!
The temples are spread over quite a large area, and unfortunately we rushed through them just a touch. Anyone considering a visit, I'd suggest taking a leisurely pace over 2-3 days, it you're into that sort of thing. And I hope you are, its well worth it.
*Pics will be coming when internet connections are faster - sorry!
Wednesday, April 4, 2007
Cambodian Basix
Suwuh suh dei, or something like that - basically G'day in Cambodian.
Yesterday was a long, long day. Up at 5.45 to get on the road by 7am. It was about 4.5 hrs to the Thai/Cambodian border. I love Thai roads, so smooth and, even thought the drivers do drive at high speed, rather erratically, you do get there neither shaken, nor stirred.
The group is pretty good. There's a 19 y.o. from England, a couple from England just out of uni (although she's Aussie) a couple from just south of Auckland (who I believe will be accompanying me all the way to Beijing - how uncanny is that??), another Aussie from near Newcastle, 2 girls from Norway about to start med school and of course Sambo (shortened to Sam for obvious reasons of skin colour) our local Cambodian group leader. We're waiting for 2 people who missed departure to catch up, if they can, at some point.
The drive to the border was a good time to get to know everyone a bit better, as we watched the last of Thailand whiz by through the bus windows.
Once into Cambodia, the increase in poverty was immediate. However the locals were lovely - which is odd for the border post towns. The bus, however, well the bus was fine, it was more the roads! They are known here as the Dancing Roads ; ladies, get your sports bras ready. If you can think of the worst road undergoing roadworks, or perhaps an area commonly used for 4 wheel driving, and then double it, you're starting to get an idea of the condition of these roads. Apparently the government own the airlines, subsequently you get no spending on the ground.
So everyday we have seen people with missing limbs, really quite sad. Many of them don't beg, unlike some of the children, they do, however, try to sell guide books or historical novels to support themselves. I'm finding it strange that they work in $US here, rather then the local currency, Riel, while still valid, dollars are preferred, and accepted, change is given in a mixture of both currencies as they do not deal in US coin.
I'm heading to the Temples tomorrow, so hopefully I'll get to upload some pics then.
Yesterday was a long, long day. Up at 5.45 to get on the road by 7am. It was about 4.5 hrs to the Thai/Cambodian border. I love Thai roads, so smooth and, even thought the drivers do drive at high speed, rather erratically, you do get there neither shaken, nor stirred.
The group is pretty good. There's a 19 y.o. from England, a couple from England just out of uni (although she's Aussie) a couple from just south of Auckland (who I believe will be accompanying me all the way to Beijing - how uncanny is that??), another Aussie from near Newcastle, 2 girls from Norway about to start med school and of course Sambo (shortened to Sam for obvious reasons of skin colour) our local Cambodian group leader. We're waiting for 2 people who missed departure to catch up, if they can, at some point.
The drive to the border was a good time to get to know everyone a bit better, as we watched the last of Thailand whiz by through the bus windows.
Once into Cambodia, the increase in poverty was immediate. However the locals were lovely - which is odd for the border post towns. The bus, however, well the bus was fine, it was more the roads! They are known here as the Dancing Roads ; ladies, get your sports bras ready. If you can think of the worst road undergoing roadworks, or perhaps an area commonly used for 4 wheel driving, and then double it, you're starting to get an idea of the condition of these roads. Apparently the government own the airlines, subsequently you get no spending on the ground.
So everyday we have seen people with missing limbs, really quite sad. Many of them don't beg, unlike some of the children, they do, however, try to sell guide books or historical novels to support themselves. I'm finding it strange that they work in $US here, rather then the local currency, Riel, while still valid, dollars are preferred, and accepted, change is given in a mixture of both currencies as they do not deal in US coin.
I'm heading to the Temples tomorrow, so hopefully I'll get to upload some pics then.
Monday, April 2, 2007
On the road again...
Tonight will be my last night in Bangkok. I'm kinda excited, as I've just met my new room mate, Nicole, an Accountant from Melbourne so it's quote cool that the next part of my adventure is imminent!
I do like Bangkok - although the hustle and bustle is tiring. Not to mention the heat, which I think I already have, several times. Repetition is emphasis.
Friday evening I drank like a rich person. At the top of the State Tower is an amazing 360deg view of Bangkok. Dave and I were up there in time for a hazy sunset, followed by a cool, relaxing Mai Tai while the lights of Bangkok came to life. Its a huge city, and easy to forget how the streets feel like they can close in on you from way up there! Dinner at the Night Bizarre next to Lompini Park. Apparently there are plans to bulldoze this great spot for locals and tourists, and put up yet another mall or high rise. Shame.
Saturday was a fun day. A leisurely start at about 11am, and jumped on the back of a motorcycle taxi up to the skytrain station. I know I shouldn't but I love the motorbike taxis! You know you have a professional if they give you a helmet. The weaving and ducking and maneuvering to get to the front of the lights really is something to behold, and they manage it before every green light. Then when the lights change its an exhilarating rush as all the bikes take off like a huge swarm of angry....somethings - just remember to keep your mouth closed! Onward to the boat taxis to head up the river to Chinatown, where I'm sure they don't know the meaning of 'one'. Everything there is in bulk. In just one trip you may never need to shop again. The streets are narrow and crowded, and I'm so impressed by the ambition, and arrogance, of the guys riding their motorbikes through this maze while the crowds part.
As the heat and the invasion of personal space increased, it was time to move on to Jim Thompson's house. An American soldier came to Thailand during WW2 and feel in love with the place, gathering traditional homes from across the country, along with the most amazing traditional art collection from all across Asia, he established himself in Bangkok, and revitalised the traditional silk trade with the western world. Then, while walking one day in the Malaysian highlands he just disappeared...weird.
Yesterday Dave flew out to the UK, and I headed to my new digs, just a stone's throw from Kho San Road. After dumping my bags I was out again, pounding the pavement, on my way to The Grand Palace and the Wat that houses the Emerald Buddha (and I can't spell the name off the top of my head, so that's some homework for you...). This place is is amazing. The sculptures (Thai angels and demons, and assorted guardians of the King) are beautiful, intricate and mostly gold. Similarly the artwork painted on the walls and then gold leafed are stunning. The gold used for the kings and god-incarnations seem to glow and jump off the walls next to the painted everyday scenes.
Next door Buddha was just lying around at Wat Pho. This golden statue is the largest Reclining Buddha, and I can't even tell you how big it is. Its just very, very big. Its hard to get a really good look at it as there are pillars and what not holding up the roof above it, but them you stand down one end and look back, it loses all sense of proportion. But very beautiful.
So today is the first day of my tour. People will be arriving during the day, I'll be getting excited. Hopefully I'll be able to update you again with tales of dicey border crossings, near misses with elephant stampedes, or something equally exciting.
I do like Bangkok - although the hustle and bustle is tiring. Not to mention the heat, which I think I already have, several times. Repetition is emphasis.
Friday evening I drank like a rich person. At the top of the State Tower is an amazing 360deg view of Bangkok. Dave and I were up there in time for a hazy sunset, followed by a cool, relaxing Mai Tai while the lights of Bangkok came to life. Its a huge city, and easy to forget how the streets feel like they can close in on you from way up there! Dinner at the Night Bizarre next to Lompini Park. Apparently there are plans to bulldoze this great spot for locals and tourists, and put up yet another mall or high rise. Shame.
Saturday was a fun day. A leisurely start at about 11am, and jumped on the back of a motorcycle taxi up to the skytrain station. I know I shouldn't but I love the motorbike taxis! You know you have a professional if they give you a helmet. The weaving and ducking and maneuvering to get to the front of the lights really is something to behold, and they manage it before every green light. Then when the lights change its an exhilarating rush as all the bikes take off like a huge swarm of angry....somethings - just remember to keep your mouth closed! Onward to the boat taxis to head up the river to Chinatown, where I'm sure they don't know the meaning of 'one'. Everything there is in bulk. In just one trip you may never need to shop again. The streets are narrow and crowded, and I'm so impressed by the ambition, and arrogance, of the guys riding their motorbikes through this maze while the crowds part.
As the heat and the invasion of personal space increased, it was time to move on to Jim Thompson's house. An American soldier came to Thailand during WW2 and feel in love with the place, gathering traditional homes from across the country, along with the most amazing traditional art collection from all across Asia, he established himself in Bangkok, and revitalised the traditional silk trade with the western world. Then, while walking one day in the Malaysian highlands he just disappeared...weird.
Yesterday Dave flew out to the UK, and I headed to my new digs, just a stone's throw from Kho San Road. After dumping my bags I was out again, pounding the pavement, on my way to The Grand Palace and the Wat that houses the Emerald Buddha (and I can't spell the name off the top of my head, so that's some homework for you...). This place is is amazing. The sculptures (Thai angels and demons, and assorted guardians of the King) are beautiful, intricate and mostly gold. Similarly the artwork painted on the walls and then gold leafed are stunning. The gold used for the kings and god-incarnations seem to glow and jump off the walls next to the painted everyday scenes.
Next door Buddha was just lying around at Wat Pho. This golden statue is the largest Reclining Buddha, and I can't even tell you how big it is. Its just very, very big. Its hard to get a really good look at it as there are pillars and what not holding up the roof above it, but them you stand down one end and look back, it loses all sense of proportion. But very beautiful.
So today is the first day of my tour. People will be arriving during the day, I'll be getting excited. Hopefully I'll be able to update you again with tales of dicey border crossings, near misses with elephant stampedes, or something equally exciting.
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